Slate frames... have you heard of them? I hadn't until recently. I know you can stitch in other frames besides embroidery hoops, and I've tried some of them. Until recently I hadn't used a slate frame. When someone first mentioned the term 'slate frame' to me, I envisioned a slab of slate rock. Turns out a slate frame isn't that at all.
If you've been wondering what a slate frame is, why you'd use one, and how to dress one, then keep on reading. Thanks to Artful Fox for sending me both their Mighty Slate Frame and their Freedom Frame to test out and share with you.
What is a Slate Frame?
A slate frame is a square-shaped embroidery frame with two bars at the top and bottom that holds fabric in place for hand embroidery. They come in various sizes based on the dimensions of the fabric being stitched.
A slate frame is made of four wood bars, with the side bars usually being at least as long as the top and bottom bars. The fabric is attached to the top and bottom bars, also called the stretcher bars, by stitching it onto twill tape webbing. Slate frames can be used with trestle stands, which are adjustable for different stitching heights. Larger projects can be rolled on the frame and repositioned as the work progresses.
Why Would You Use a Slate Frame?
Slate frames provide even tension to the fabric, allowing it to be stretched drum-tight. Tighter then even your standard embroidery hoop! They also keep the fabric clean by allowing the embroidery to be covered for areas that aren't being stitched. Slate frames are great for large projects because you don't need to move the hoop around the project and worry about ring creases.
How to Dress a Slate Frame
Supplies Needed for Dressing a Slate Frame:
Cotton or linen fabric (no wider than the slate frame bars)
Iron and ironing board
How to Get Started Dressing a Slate Frame:
1. Start by cutting and ironing your fabric to size. I used a 10x14 inch piece of cotton fabric for my 10 inch slate frame. After the fabric is ironed, fold the end that will be attached to the frame over 1/2 inch and iron it to create a crease. For me, this was the 10 inch sides.
2. Before attaching the fabric to the frame, measure the side of the frame where the twill tape is attached to and mark the center. On the frame, measure from slat opening to slat opening. Then measure the fabric and mark its center along the creased edge.
3. Align the marked centers of the frame and fabric together, with the creased the fabric aligned to the edge of the twill tape attached to the frame. Pin the fabric to the twill tape with sewing pins.
4. Next, measure an arm's length of upholstery thread and thread your embroidery needle. Put a knot at the end of the thread. Now sew the fabric to the twill tape.
Start at the middle. The first few stitches should overlap to create a secure anchor. Then stitch one side, before knotting the thread and stitching the other side.
Repeat for the other side of the fabric and the slate frame.
5. If your fabric is larger than your embroidery or you want to work in a section of the embroidery, roll the fabric attached to the frame around the bar. You can do one or both bars.
6. With the fabric size selected, pin the twill tape to the side of the fabric. The twill tape should overlap the fabric about 2/3 of the way with 1/3 hanging off the fabric edge. Use the upholstery thread to stitch the twill tape to the fabric. For this you can start at one side and work towards the other.
7. Once the fabric is attached, lay it flat on a table. Insert the side bars into the larger slotted holes of the frame. At one end, insert a cotter pin into the frame hole under the wooden bar. Find the same hole on the other side and add a cotter pin on the opposite side of the frame. Repeat for the bottom of the frame.
At this point you're not yet stretching the frame, this just holds the bars in place to lace it to the frame. We will stretch it later.
8. Tie the cotton twine to the corner of the slate frame. Using the bracing needle, stitch the cotton twine around the side bar and through the twill tape. This doesn't need to be tight yet, just work down one side of the frame. Leave a 6-8 inch tail of thread and loosely knot the cotton twine to the bottom corner of the frame.
Now start at the top of the frame and tighten the twine (like tightening shoe laces) until you get to the bottom. Then retie the twine.
Repeat on the other side.
9. Now it's time to tighten the slate frame. This part takes a lot of upper body strength and you might need another person to help you. Pulling the bottom bar, adjust the cotter pin on one side than the other, stretching the fabric taught. This will take multiple times going from side to side. When you think you can't tighten it anymore, try for one more peg. Be sure the cotter pins are even.
10. Now stitch away!
When I dressed my first 10 inch slate frame it took me about 1.5-2 hours. It's a long labor-intensive process, but my fabric was so taught!
Now you might be wondering, 'Is there an easier version of the slate frame, that seems like a lot of work?' Thankfully, there is! The lovely people at Artful Fox created the Freedom Frame to make dressing a slate frame easier and less labor intensive.
The Easier Slate Frame: Mighty Frame from Artful Fox
The Freedom Frame by Artful Fox is an evolution in slate frame design that marries a traditional style with added flexibility and ease of dressing fabric. This frame takes a fraction of the time to dress, compared to a traditional slate frame. Thanks to the slot and dowel based fabric loading design in combination with the screw and nut tension system you don't need a ton of upper body strength or a lot of time to get your fabric ready for stitching.
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